• Bk Butler Tube Works Tube Drivers For Mac Free
• Bk Butler Tube Works Tube Drivers For Mac Windows 7

Some used 4-knob Tube Drivers marked ‘Chandler’ are NOT the original design by BK BUTLER! All authentic Tube Drivers have “Concept & Design: ” on them. Pedals with separate AC power supplies or ‘wall warts’ are NOT original and do NOT sound the same! Order here and get a REAL BK Butler hand-made Tube Driver! 50+ videos Play all Mix - BK Butler Tube Driver YouTube Secrets Revealed!!-What's Inside This BK Butler Tube Driver Real Tube Overdrive - Duration: 5:05. LPD Pedals 13,290 views. BK Butler Tube Works Tube Driver 12AX7 Overdrive Effect Pedal. A real tube overdrive from Tube Works. This boutique drive pedal was made in the USA, designed by B.K. Shipping via USPS Priority Mail. Feel free to ask any questions. BK Butler Tube Works Tube Driver 12AX7 Overdrive Effect Pedal. A real tube overdrive from Tube Works. This boutique drive pedal was made in the USA, designed by B.K. Shipping via USPS Priority Mail. Feel free to ask any questions.

©Kit Rae. Article written in 2007. Last update January 2019

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TUBE DRIVER POWER REQUIREMENTS - Most Tube Drivers have an internal transformer that works with the mains voltage of the country it was made for. The original Tube Drivers were made with transformers that run on 110-120VAC for the North American market. Later some Tube Drivers and Real Tubes were made for the European market with transformers that ran on 220-240VAC. DO NOT plug a Tube Driver made with a 110-120V transformer into a 220-240V power outlet. It will draw 4x the power it needs, causing it to overheat and damage the circuit. Conversely, if you plug a Tube Driver with a 220-240V transformer meant for the Eurpoean market into a 110-120v outlet, it will only draw 1/4 the power it needs and may not function properly. To run a 110-120V Tube Driver on 220-240V mains power, use a step-up voltage converter. To run a 220-240V Tube Driver on 110-120V mains power, use a step-down voltage converter. Or, have the transformer inside replaced with one that works with the mains voltage of your country.

The 911 Tube Drivers that B.K. Butler has been making since 2005 could be ordered with either voltage, so be sure you are buying a Tube Driver with the correct voltage for your country. At some point Butler started using a toroid transformer that runs from 120-240VAC which works with either mains power.

TUBE DRIVER MODIFICATIONS - Changing Tubes - This is the simplest, most effective mod for a Tube Driver. Some people find the distortion too rough sounding, at low drive settings and want a smoother, cleaner sound. Since the distortion is generated by the op-amp, not the tube, it would seem changing the tube would have little effect on the level of distortion. A lower gain tube will not necessarily reduce the amount of distortion, but it can smooth and tame it at medium to low drive levels. What it does is compress and color the distortion. Here is what an original Tube Driver Users Guide said about the tubes:

Bk Butler Tube Works Tube Drivers For Mac Free

You can change the tone of your 'Tube Driver' pedal with a very simple modification, which can be completed with only a screwdriver. To add gain, you can substitute a 12AT7 tube, which will give more distortion and beefs up the mid range frequencies. To have a cleaner, more vintage sound, you can substitute a 12AU7 tube, which will clean up the tone and thins out the midrange. This tube works very well for players seeking a cleaner tone in the lower settings of the drive control.

In typical power amplifiers the preamp tubes can easily last 15 years or more with moderate use and 10 years or more with very heavy use. Since the Tube Driver is a starved plate design, the tube will last much longer (even though the original user guide said they only lasted 2-4 years!). Chances are you will never have to replace it, but you may want to experiment with different tubes to see which sounds best in the TD to you. The tube is usually glued to the socket with a silicon rubber, but you can peel or cut that away. The stock tube shipped with Tube Drivers was alwasy a 12AX7, but different brands of tubes or tube types may alter the sound in different ways. Some people don't really hear any difference when swapping tubes, and others hear drastic differences. In my experience, the differences are more noticeable at high volume, and low drive settings on the TD. In general I have not heard any difference when swapping tubs when using high volume/high gain settings on the TD.

Shown above (left to right) - An original long-plate Ei Yugoslavian ECC83 tube, a re-branded Ei tube marked 'TUBE DRIVER' that shipped with the original BKB/Chandler Tube Driver in 1986-87, and the same tube branded 'CHANDLER ELECTRONICS' that shipped with some 1987 Tube Drivers and the cheap Chandler branded Tube Drivers in 1988-89.

Shown above - A short plate, unbranded Goldern Dragon 12AX7 that ships with the reissue Tube Drivers made since 2006.

Original BKB/Chandler branded Tube Drivers from 1986-87, and the cheap Chandler version from 1988-89, shipped with a long plate Yugoslavian ECC-83 (12AX7). Early units shipped with stock Ei branded tubes and later production had custom branding. There was also a version branded Real Tube that shipped with the Tube Works 911 Tube Drivers in the 1990s and some early 911 reissues in 2006. Butler called those 1970 'NOS' YUGO tubes, meaning 'new old stock' tubes made in Yugoslavia in the 1970s. He ran out of them in 2006.

The stock tube that ships with the 911 Tube Driver made since 2006 is a Golden Dragon 12AX7 - a low noise, hi-fi preamp tube. It is unmarked, other than BK written on it with a Sharpie. The distortion on my first TD was a bit too rough at low drive settings for my taste, so I swapped out several different 12AU7 tubes. Lower gain should give a smoother sounding overdrive, but that's not always the case with different tube brands. The 12AU7s did not really reduce the gain from the drive pot, but a few of the tube brands I tried made the distortion less fuzzy sounding so the individual strings in a chord had more clarity and single notes had smoother sound.

Very few factories make vacuum tubes the way they used to be made these days, so it is worth noting that certain NOS (new old stock) tubes can sound much better than most modern tubes. I have tried various tubes, including an old GE 12AU7, Ei Yugoslavian 12AX7, and JJ Electronics ECC83/12AX7 in my current TDs. The 12AU7, being a slightly lower gain tube than the 12AX7, was slightly smoother and cleaner sounding at low drive settings in my old BKB/Chandler TDs, but there was a less noticable difference in my 911 Tube Drivers. I have also tried 12AT7 tubes in the 911 and did not hear a big difference vs the 12AX7. I have a cheap Electro-Harmonix 12AU7 in my 5 knob Real Tube that sounds as nice as the NOS tubes in my 911 TDs, so even a cheap tube works.

Below are the tube gain factors compared to the stock 12AX7, but keep in mind the distortion and clipping comes from the op-amp, not the tube.

Approximate Gain Factors
100 = 12AX7, ECC83, 7025, ECC803, E83CC, 6681
70 = 5751
60 = 12AT7, ECC81, 6201, 6679, 4024
45 = 12AY7, 6072
41 = 12AV7, 5965
19 = 12AU7, ECC82, 5963, 5814, 6189

............

MODIFICATIONS - Changing op-Amps - As stated, most of the hard clipping distortion comes from the op-amp, not the tube, and not all op-amps clip the same way. You may notice that the op-amp on the circuit board is mounted in a socket in the modern BKB Tube Driver, so you can swap out other higher quality op-amps to see if you like the sound better. The op-amp is the small black boxed IC chip with 8 pins on the left hand side of the circuit in the photos below. You can pull it out by hand and replace it with any other 8 pin dual op-amp chip. I tried a JRC4558D (used in the older TD), and another that I think was an OP275. Those did not improve or change the sound to my ears at all, but I did have good results using Burr Brown OPA2134 op-amps. It was noticably smoother at low gain and I liked it better than the stock TL072 chip that shipped with my 911 TD in 2007. It only made a minor difference however. In a blind test, most people would find it difficult to hear much difference.

MODIFICATIONS - Add an External Power Switch - Some people like to leave their pedalboard power on for long periods, even when not playing. This can unnecessarily shorten the life of the vaccuum tube inside the Tube Driver. To avoid unplugging the power cord when not is use, you can easily add an external power switch. A simple lamp cord switch can be added to the power cord, then velcroed or glued to the back of the enclosure. Lamp switches are inexpensive and can be found at hardware stores or online stores like Amazon. They only require one line in the cord to be cut and wired to the two contacts inside the switch. For three prong cords, be sure and cut only one of the outside copper lines in the cord, not the center ground line.

MODIFICATIONS - Remove the Internal Power Supply to Reduce Hum - To avoid the noise issues caused by the internal transformer being so close to the audio circuit (described in the KNOWN ISSUES section below), the transformer can be moved outside of the TD enclosure. This can be done by removing it, enclosing it in a protective plastic or metal enclosure, and running an extension cord back to the Tube Driver.

You can also remove the transformer and add an AC power supply jack on the back of the enclosure so it can be powered by an AC to AC (not AC to DC) external power supply. According to Butler, if your mains voltage is 110-120v, the transformer needs to run at least 12.6VAC, rated at least 150-200mA. Most transformers running 110VAC or 120VAC primary (input from wall) to 12V secondary (output) should work, as long as it outputs at least 150-200mA. If it outputs more than 200mA, that is fine. The pedal will only draw as much power as it needs, so 500mA to 1A will work, but may cost a bit more. Use a transformer with a standard 2.1mm x 5.5mm barrel output plug.

First disconnect the existing internal transformer that is riveted or screwed to the front end of the enclosure. Note which leads from the transformer run to the circuit board. Drill a hole and install the a 2.1mm x 5.5mm barrel plug jack on the back of the enclosure. This is the standard power jack size found on most pedals, like Boss and Ibanez. The polarity of the jack does not matter like it does on a standard pedal running DC, since the Tube Driver runs off AC. Solder the leads from the jack back to the circuit board. Plug the external AC power supply in and you are ready to go.

This is exaclty what Chandler did with their unauthorized copy of the Tube Driver in 1988, only it ran on 24vAC, 400mA. This is what their Owners Manual said: By locating the transformer outside of the box we have been able to accomplish three objectives: Noise and hum is significantly reduced. Shock hzard has is practically eliminated. The Tube Driver now conforms to international UL standards.

It is also possible to convert the Tube Driver to DC power so it can run from a standard pedal power supply, as is the case with the Tube King and some Taiwan made Real Tube pedals. It is more complicated however, and requires running the leads from the DC power jack before the filtering section and after the rectifier section of the circuit. It is best to have an electronics tech do that unless you have some experience with this sort of thing.

KNOWN ISSUES - Below are some of the well known quirks with this pedal that may cause problems for people with certain setups, and some ideas for how to correct them or deal with them in your signal chain.

Hum Noise - The primary issue I have heard about is hum noise. Zadig for mac. Some people have hum noise so bad that it makes the pedal unusable. I have heard this from owners of old BKB/Chandler Tube Drivers, Tube Works Real Tube overdrives, and the later 911 Tube Drivers. It sounds like 50-60Hz noise or a ground loop hum. There are no shielded leads in the circuit and the input jack ground wire runs to the pcb, but the output jack is grounded directly to the enclosure, with no separate ground wire to the circuit. It's not a grounding or shielding problem however. The hum seems to be caused primarily by the proximity of the internal transformer to the Tube Driver circuit, which is a big no-no for effect pedal circuits. Butler has acknowledged that noise issues in the older units were due to noisy transformers and sometime around 2008-2009 he began using low noise toroidal transformers.

The hum issue seems to be more prevalent with people running 220-240v than 110-120v, but not always. I had one Real Tube pedal with a hum problem, but that actually turned out to be caused by a bad ground, so I have no experience with the larger hum issue myself. All the various version of the TD circuit I have owned or tried have been hum free, with the exception of a low buzz on one of the 1987 Tube drivers when using single coil pickups.

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The TD runs off AC power, not DC like most effect pedals. It uses a built in transformer (12.6VAC at 200mA) and has its own AC power cable, unlike most other effect pedals which use an external power transformer, plugged into a jack on the pedal. For the 911 reissie TDs Butler has changed to lower noise toroidal transformers like Pete Cornish uses in his custom pedal boards. That did not solve the problem though, as I have read comments from owners who replaced the transformer with the exact toroidal that BKB uses, and still have noise issues. All of my TDs have the older type transformers and I have never had this type of noise issue myself.